Just imagine gathering with friends and
family to celebrate the big news. Empty wine
glasses sparkle as if anticipating the
contents to come as you remove the cork from
the special bottle of Champagne that you've
been saving. As you fill the glasses, you
take note of the appearance of this
spectacular wine - the deep ruby red color
and almost inky opaque denseness. Red wine
with no bubbles called Champagne? Is this a
bad dream?
For the short term future, perhaps it is only
a bad dream. There is no denying the fact
that global warming is having an impact on
agriculture around the planet, and wine
grapes are not excluded. In the present, it
seems as though global warming is a good
thing for wine grapes, and the wines produced
from them.
Sotheby's vintage rating scale, an accepted
measure of the quality of different vintages,
shows more consistent ratings and an average
increase in quality.
But the future may not be the days of wine
and roses. A study on the impact
of climate change in California on numerous
crops, including wine crops, published in the
December 2006 Agriculture & Forest
Meteorology predicts that "without
fertilization or adaptation measures,
projected crop losses could be greater than
40%." If there
is a positive aspect to focus on, it is that
adaptive
measures can be employed to stay ahead of
climate change. California grape growers are
free to plant whatever type of grapes
they want to, but all varietals are extremely
sensitive to the climate in which they grow.
They require different degrees of sunshine,
rain, heat and temperature range not to
mention nutrients from different soils. So
if temperatures get too warm for the
vines of Pinot Noir, a finicky grape that
thrives in cooler climates, the vineyards can
be replanted with another varietal that will
prefer the warmer climate, such as Syrah.
Most European countries do not have this
luxury. France and Italy are the two largest
wine producing countries in the world, and
are also two of the oldest wine producing
countries in the world. The structure of the
wine industry in these older European
regions, referred to as the "Old World," is
quite different than it is in the US or any
of the "New World" regions such as Argentina
or Australia. In France and Italy, grape
growers are not free to plant whatever
variety they choose. There are laws that are
designed to ensure quality to protect the
consumer regarding authenticity of a wine
product. To do this, governing bodies allow
wines from various geographic areas to be
made from very specific grapes. For example,
a red wine from France's Burgundy region must
be made from either Pinot Noir or Gamay or
the producer cannot label his wine as being a
wine from Burgundy.
These rules are rooted in centuries of
careful documentation in Europe, and they
have served the wine industry there quite
well. Change in wine laws of Europe is hard to
imagine after centuries of being memorized by
sommelier students. Change will be driven by
economics. In 2007, vineyards across Europe
were harvesting three weeks earlier than
normal, which may have a negative impact on
quality. If this continues, vineyards will
have little choice but to replant their land
with grapes that will thrive in the warmer
climates.
It is possible that we may see sparkling
wines which we now associate with Champagne
being produced as far north as Finland.
Maybe, just maybe, spectacular red wines like
those of France's Bordeaux region that are so
cherished by British aristocracy, could be
grown and produced on farmland outside of
London. And just maybe when you pop the cork
on a bottle of Champagne, instead of the old
bubbles synonymous with celebrations for
centuries, you'll get a hearty red wine that
you currently associate with the Rhone
region. Just maybe, things may change...